Tuesday, July 5

Tiger Tales

We have hit up three Indian national parks now. Our first, Preiyar, despite being a wonderful jungle to explore, was a bust in the large animal front. We only saw a single dear, distant bison, and some wild boar.

Ladakh, on the other hand was an unexpected success. We came for the exercise and local culture, but were treated to a host of birds including the giant Golden Eagle and the abundant Black-Billed Magpie. On a drive to a famous high-altitude emerald-colored lake (Pangong), we saw wild horses and our first bharal sheep. Bharal are commonly called blue sheep, because the male rump has dark-blue wool. They're famous wool is used in pashmina shawls. We also enjoyed conies of super furry marmots having a wrestle and herds of grazing ibex. But, elusive to us were the legendary snow leopards and the musk deer whom are hunted for their musk gland, used in perfume.



Not yet satisfied with our wildlife sightings, Jen and I squeezed in an overnight trip to the Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve. The objective of the safari is large cats with the tiger as the grand prize. Originally we were quite disappointed. We got a super early start, trying to fetch a coveted ride on the park elephants, but the warden jumped the queue and blocked our chances. The animals we were seeing from our open-jeep were mostly deer, both the graceful spotted deer and the large Indian deer. Feeling a little cheated and dejected, we drove slowly along while half heartedly snapping shots of peacocks, monkeys, a mongoose, and a snake. Paired with a jeep carrying two rowdy young Dutch guys, we were brought to a halt on the edge of a plain and told to stand on our seats scan for tigers. All the other jeeps were at similar vantage points with mobiles at the ready in case something interesting emerged.

Our driver and guide were just trying to convince the Dutch to be silent and continue scanning when a message arrived in some secret fashion. Instantly Nadeen, our driver was back in his seat shouting "Sit down!" We obediently slipped down just in time to rocket down the mud road.

Nadeen, who was earlier literally sleeping at the wheel, showed no restraint and flew past the other jeeps, dodging rocks and fallen trees like Harry Potter's magical Kinght Bus. I swear we were going to hit an enormous Monitor Lizard scurrying across the road, but instead made a 3 second photo stop at my insistence. A pause that nearly lost us our prize.


And then, ahead of us on the road were five parked jeeps and thirty fingers unanimously pointing right of the road. Our aggressive driver skidded to a halt front and center and we hopped back up on our seats. Finger pointing was not necessary, because there, in the tall grass only 35ft away, was one very orange and black tail swishing through the air. Swish swish swish swish. At the end of the tail a tiger who spun his head to glimpse us and then melted into the camouflage of the grass. Swish swish. 

2 comments:

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